“This season, there’s a backlash against excess,” she says. “It’s about confidence now, not complication. Doing make-up in a moment, rather than overworking it.”

Pastel Playtime

“This season marked the emergence of a new power pastel. These pastels aren’t pale or washed out, they make a statement,” says Pat who explored the trend as a refreshing antidote to the elaborate looks of previous seasons. What she describes as ‘credit crunch couture and anti-excess’ manifests itself in eye-catching pastel shades from a palette of lavender, baby blue, mint, pink and white. Shades seen at shows by Versace, Dior, Viktor&Rolf and Donna Karan.

Try it yourself – tips from Caroline Barnes
The Pastel Playtime look relies on simple lines or soft swirls of soft colour. Choose a pastel eyeliner such as Max Factor Colour Perfection Eyeliner in Ice Blue to sweep along the upper lash line, in a colourful wing.
• Softly define eyes with a couple coats of Max Factor Lash Extension Effect
in Black Brown.
• For a soft wash of pastel colour, swirl a large eyeshadow brush over your chosen shade from the Max Factor Earth Spirits range. Tap the brush to remove any excess then dust colour upwards and outwards, to the brows, to create a larger eye dimension.

ROUGE TIP: The trick when using pale shades is to apply a base of sheer concealer and loose powder to lids and under eyes first to brighten eyes and allow shadow to blend smoothly.

Tribal Jewels

Adding a flash of colour is, as Pat McGrath says, “The way real women wear make-up.” A rainbow of colours came through in smouldering green at Issa, safari-inspired khaki at Aquascutum, purple, pink and reds at Galliano, and colour blocked gothic punks at Yohji Yamamoto. Key to the look is making the most of colour – Pat chooses to create vivid eyeshadows from the lash lines to brows to make the greatest visual impact.

Try it yourself – tips from Caroline Barnes
• It’s all about brush work as this season’s eye trends rely on application and blending skills.
• For the Tribal Jewels look, choose deep, iridescent shades of eye shadow and dark eyeliner to make colours appear more intense.
• For a more intense colour result, apply with a wet brush or layer over Masterpiece Colour Precision Eyeshadow, a creamy formulation that’s easy to blend. To add further impact, draw Max Factor Colour Perfection Eyeliner along top and bottom lashes and smudge with fingers or an eyeshadow brush. Complete the look using Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara.

ROUGE TIP: Use light shades from lash lines up to brow bones and darker shades in the socket to add depth.

Lashes and Lines

“This season, lashes are a big make-up statement,” says Pat McGrath, who has opted to use eyeliner to draw lines from thin to thick to redefine the natural geometry of the eye. Eyeliner was the defining element for eyes at shows including Gucci, where a superfine line edged the eyes, leaving them subtly enhanced; at Valentino eyes were inked in black half moon shapes; and at Miu Miu flicks of liner added to the feline effect.

As for lashes, Louis Vuitton’s ‘Japanese Club Kid’ references resulted in layers of mascara used to create spiked lashes, at Miu Miu ‘cat’s whisker’ lashes appeared pussy cat pretty, while a ladylike theme prevailed at Nina Ricci where Pat herself used brown mascara on the top lashes only to achieve a ‘softer, more feminine’ result.

 Try it yourself – tips from Caroline Barnes
• Start by lightly sketching the shape of the line then check at a distance in a mirror to see if the lines are even.
• Then simply go over the shape, either using the Max Factor Kohl Pencil, which is blendable for a softer, smudged look.
• If you make a mistake, dip a cotton bud in moisturiser to lightly erase and start again.
• The important detail is never to draw a continuous line around the eyes as this ‘closes’ them making them appear smaller.
• Apply mascara like a pro by doing the upper lashes first. Looking straight ahead, use a fingertip on the brow bone to lift the lid, then sweep from roots to tips, placing the brush below the lashes.
• Repeat placing the brush above the lashes. Allow to dry for a few moments.
• Turn the wand to a 45-degree angle and use the tip to sweep along the lower lids. Leave to dry for a few moments then dip the brush again and repeat the process.

ROUGE TIP: A break in the line – at the inner or outer edges  of the lids makes for maximum impact.

ROUGE TIP: A fully loaded brush has too much product for lower lashes which is why it’s a good idea to do the upper lashes first.